Mounting Orchids on Wood
Given that the first piece of advice I give people about orchids is to do your best to recreate its native environment, it’s a bit strange that I only have one orchid mounted on wood. Most orchids are epiphytes, which means they grow on trees. Orchid collectors often cultivate and display orchids in a way that simulates this by mounting the plants on wood or cork. I love the way this looks, especially when there are lots of vertically-mounted and hanging orchids, like at orchid shows.
Sarcochilus olivaceus mounted on cork. (Photo credit: cskk CC BY-NC-ND 2.0, via Flickr)
Mounting offers a number of benefits, including avoiding the need to repot. Depending on the material, some orchids can live on the same mount for a decade. The roots of a mounted orchid get more “exercise” because they help keep the plant attached when they wrap around and adhere to the mount, which builds stronger roots. And because the roots aren’t in potting medium, they’re far less likely to experience rot, so overwatering isn’t a concern. Mounts can work for any epiphytic orchid, such as cattleyas, dendrobiums, and phalaenopsis. Terrestrial orchids, such as jewel orchids, do not work on mounts.
Mounted orchids at the New York Botanical Garden. The Spanish moss draped around them provides a dramatic effect, but is more aesthetic than practical.
Most collectors hang their mounted orchids, but table top mounts exist as well (especially with free-standing and/or particularly beautiful pieces of wood). Cork is the easiest mounting material to work with, lasts longer (up to 10 years), and promotes better air circulation than wood. On the other hand, wood is prettier—especially driftwood—but depending on the type of wood, it might rot sooner than later. Another downside of using driftwood or other foraged wood for orchid mounts is that they might contain pests or saltwater; treated wood can also contain resins. The best wood won’t be smooth, but instead will have rough bark and other crevices for affixing roots. There’s a great guide to choosing the best mounting wood here.
Different mounts sold by kkorchid.com (we have not tried these!)
There are many other mounts, such as coco husk fiber plaques, terra cotta mounting jars, and something called “kool logs,” ceramic mounts especially designed for cooler-weather orchids. Many people add sphagnum moss to the mount to help with moisture retention, and some even mount with live moss or tree fern plaques (a complicated but intriguing prospect for terrarium owners).
The best time to transfer an orchid to a mount is the spring, as the new set-up takes adjustment. Before mounting, the material and the orchid both need preparation. If using wood, one should get rid of salt (and any creatures) in it by soaking it and changing the water daily for 5-7 days (a week for salt water). Sterilizing the wood by putting it in the oven at a low temperature for an hour can be a good idea too. Soak the orchid in water for an hour to make its roots more pliable for attaching to the wood. There’s a good step-by-step process here.
Trichocentrum Comete Oncidium (photo credit: A./B. Larsen, CC BY-SA 2.5 DK, via Wikimedia Commons)
The only big con to mounting orchids is that they need a lot more watering than potted orchids. They enjoy humidity and misting, but in order to really water them, one has to dunk them in water every day or two. One also needs to fertilize mounted orchids more than potted ones, as they’re not getting nutrients from bark.
Just as I’m experimenting with a hydroponic set-up for one of my orchids, I’m tempted to take another one and try mounting it. I’ll be keeping my eyes peeled for cool pieces of wood during my forest walks this fall.
